Wednesday 31 July 2013

Ulan Batar -Lake Baikal (Russia) - Lake Khovsgol (Mongolia)



                Chingis Khan is the undisputed hero of Mongolian history. Here his statue stands outside Government House in Ulaanbaatar



                Our make do second hand truck spring which saved us in the Gobi Desert is replaced with a new piece of spring steel fitted by a local workshop. However it had to be first cut and drilled to measure, compliments of the local military base for $30. Didn’t finish the job so we camped in the workshop for the night


            Rain or shine, workshop or under the stars, Roadee is our comfortable lodge









                    Our first Mongolian meal – sheep meat, potatoes and carrot soup


 
      

          Completing the deal on some wild strawberries. Tiny miniatures of the real thing but sweet and beautiful to eat
  



             Darkan in central northern Mongolia is the first we have seen of large scale cropping. Set up by the Russians during communist times but surprisingly with what appeared to be very little supporting infrastructure







            We reach the Russian border on our way to visit Lake Baikal in Siberia. This time a very efficient and smooth crossing particularly with Marina to translate




             At this latitude we encounter a beautiful mixture of silver birch, larch and spruce trees all growing naturally over the open rolling hills



               Siberia is known for its wooden houses, bright painted shutters with potted geraniums and violets in the windows  









1           ….and finally Lake Baikal; holding one fifth of the world’s fresh water; over 600 klm long by 40 klm wide and 1.6 klm deep; it freezes to a depth of 1.2 metres allowing heavy transport to drive on it



       Winter is minus 20 degrees and often minus 30 but now in mid-summer it’s a popular Russian holiday destination to soak up some of the short summer sun



         Local fishermen haul in the catch while Large Grey Back Seaguls are there for their share. Surprising as we’re still far from the sea



          You could say, a Russian version of a motor home/caravan










              Although it’s mid-summer at Baikal, it’s still ugg boots and coats in the evening. This was sunset at 10:00 at night




             After Lake Baikal it was south to Mongolia again then west. At Erdenet the security guards at the copper mine escorted us to the viewing area (for a fee of $7/vehicle). The mine accounts for 40% of Mongolia’s hard currency but consumes 50% of the country’s power! It’s also one of the world’s 10 largest copper mines


                    Further west and the road disappears again and the way forward deteriorates to tracks across open country. Back to the GPS for navigation

           



       The Mongolian towns are so different with no roads leading to the town just tracks, no fences, no build up heralding a town ahead……….. just, a bunch of houses in the middle of nowhere




                The north is a fat tail sheep area. While there’s no formalized sheep shearing process, the wool in matted form is collected and goes into the Mongolian carpet business, that is what’s left on the truck at the end of the journey



                 I never realized that Mongolia is home to yaks which are very common in the colder north 








              The native flowers in full bloom for the short summer always made for pleasant camp sites


           Another surprise was the Tsaatan or Reindeer People who live in Indian style teepees in the higher and colder north of Mongolia

 
               Another destination in the north was Khovsgol Lake which holds 1% of the world’s fresh water. In a harsh climate like Lake Baikal it freezes to over a metre of ice making a great road for trucking oil in from Russia. However after over 40 trucks went through the ice the practice was banned in 1990 but……     
 


   

  ……. with glorious scenery it made for a very pleasant camp site for four days R&R for us and R&M for Roadee